All posts by Claire Walter

Mesa Verde County Podcast Tour

Modern media help guide visitors through Colorado’s ancient lands and sites.

Ancient Voices” is Mesa Verde Country’s new travel podcast that guides visitors through the Southwest Colorado communities of Cortez, Dolores and Mancos. The 30-minute audio tour, which includes driving directions, is versatile and designed to accompany travelers as they journey at their own pace among the archaeological, agricultural and geological wonders of Mesa Verde Country, the modern communities that are neighbors to renowned Mesa Verde National Park. Historical, geological and flora/fauna information in the podcast provides context to a visitor’s experience.

The tour starts in the town of Cortez, nearest to the park entrance. Stop at the Colorado Welcome Center (928 East Main Street) for all sorts of information, brochures, history, a gift shop and  free coffee. The Cortez Cultural Center, located in downtown Cortez, features historical exhibits and live cultural events and activities, including Native American dances in the plaza on summer evenings. For outdoor experiences like hiking, biking, wildlife viewing and sweeping vistas of the surrounding mountains, the Hawkins Preserve in the southern part of town is the place to go.

McElmo Canyon, farther south, is a scenic canyon with sandstone walls,  ranchland and farm fields, homesteads and the area’s two wineries,  Guy Drew and Sutcliffe. The canyon’s temperate climate lends itself to growing a variety of fruits and vegetables, including– peaches, apricots, apples and more. It’s also a rich hay-making area.

The Ancestral Puebloans were master builders who left a legacy for today’s visitors to Mesa Verde Country of southwestern Colorado.

About 10 miles west of Cortez on County Road G are a trailhead and parking area for access to the remote and magical Canyons of the Ancients National Monument. Several trails access the southern reaches of the monument, inviting visitors to travel back in time to learn about the Ancestral Puebloan culture through the ruins that remain.

Just beyond the historic Ismay Trading Post building is the Colorado/Utah border and the entrance to the Hovenweep National Monument. It is perhaps the greatest and most concentrated collection of archaeologic towers in the area. The headquarters is on the Utah side and offers a National Park Service visitor center staffed by rangers who can answer questions and provide maps. Take plenty of water. sunscreen and a brimmed hat — and step into Colorado antiquity.

Frank Lloyd Wright Masterpiece on His 150th

Taliesen West in Scottsdale is the West’s best FLW building.

Today is the 150th anniversary of the great Frank Lloyd Wright’s birth. His winter home and studio, Taliesin West, remains a prime example of Wright’s organic architecture in that the structures are built of the rocks and sand of the Sonoran Desert and melds to the lower McDowell Mountains.

Located near Scottsdale, Arizona, the grounds and buildings were constructed over a period of approximately 20 years by Frank Lloyd Wright and his hard-working apprentices. The site is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Today, visitors enjoy tours through terraces, landscaped gardens and walkways commanding dramatic views of Camelback Mountain and the Valley of the Sun. I’ve been twice, and next time I visit greater Phoenix, I plan to go again.

Guides discuss the history of Taliesin West and its famous creator. The basic tour is the one-hour Panorama Tour, beginning daily at 10:15 a.m.  ($26 in advance, $28 walk-up), which visits the Cabaret Theater, Music Pavilion, and Wright’s Private Office while exploring Wright’s genius for creatively linking indoor and outdoor spaces.

The most popular is the 90-minute Insights Tour, daily beginning at 8:45 a.m. ($34 in advance, $38 walk-up) that includes all the stops of the Panorama Tour plus the Wrights’ Living Quarters and the gracious “Garden Room.”

Seasonally, Night Lights Tours show Taliesin West romantically lit under the Arizona stars. Junior Architect Tours, Desert “Shelter” Tours, and Extended Insights Tours grant Wright enthusiasts a wide variety of Taliesin West tour experiences.

You can book a tour at http://Zerve.com/TaliesinWest   or by calling 888-516-0811. The address is 12621 N. Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd., Scottsdale. And of course, there’s a shopping opportunity at Anneliese’s Bookstore with its immense collection of Wright-licensed products.

Last Runs of 2016-17 on Aspen Mountain

Mountain-top skiing & riding on Memorial Day Weekend.

Most of this week has been cool and rainy in Boulder, meaning that winter is far from over in the high country.  No one quite knows when Trail Ridge Road, the country’s highest continuously paved road, will be plowed out. Arapahoe Basin has announced a bonus weekend, June 9-11, and is being coy about possible open days beyond that.  And that other rite of spring skiing continues as Aspen Mountain opens for skiing and riding Memorial Day Weekend, May 27-29.

Memorial Day skiing on Aspen Mountain in 2016.

The Silver Queen Gondola from the in-town base to the summit operates from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. for skiing and riding, and the Ajax Express chairlift runs from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. for the season’s last laps on Aspen Mountain’s upper blue runs and such black runs as Summit and Blondie’s.

In addition to opening 130 acres of skiable terrain, Memorial Day Weekend marks the start of Aspen Mountain’s summer operations with access to sightseeing and food/beverage options at the Sundeck restaurant.

Rent Julia Child’s French Home via AirBnB

Stay in a culinary legend’s equally legendary country home.

Anyone traveling France whose lodging budget is on the threshold of $700 a night can stay at Julia Child’s home in Provence via Airbnb — if it is available and not being used for cooking classes. This is where she herself mastered the art of French cooking. Child, a traditionalist in the kitchen, died in 2004 and could hardly imagine such a lodging set-up.

Julia Child’s French kitchen, as it appears today. The pegboards are a legacy of Paul Child, who customized kitchens for his wife, the beloved French Chef.

Here’s how the decorating magazine, Domino, described it:

Foodies rejoice: Julia Child’s picture-perfect cottage in the Provencal countryside—dubbed La Pitchoune (“The Little Thing”) by Child and her husband Paul—is now available to rent on Airbnb. For just under $700 a night, the legendary bungalow, designed and built by the Childs in the 1960s, could be all yours, including the kitchen that helped spark the French cooking movement of the 1970s.

Nestled on several acres of rural land just North of Cannes, the cozy cottage once owned by Child offers three bedrooms (that can sleep up to six) and three-and-a-half bathrooms, as well as multiple gardens, terraces, and a saltwater swimming pool. Variety reports that the current owners bought the house in 2015 from the family that originally leased the land to the Childs. It has been updated since Child’s time, but many original details remain.

Click here for the AirBnB listing, noting that few dates remain for 2018 and reservations are being taken for 2019.

Cross-posted to http://culinary-colorado.com.

New Ferry Service to New York City Beaches

The Rockaways now easy ( & cheap) to visit.

Along with the food, culture and entertainment scenes, visitors to New York City’s can think of The Big Apple as a beach destination. New ferry service between Lower Manhattan and a string of distant beachfront neighborhoods in Queens is designed to ease life for commuters, and as a side benefit, the new route provides a great opportunity for travelers, too.

The “Rockaway” route speeds past Governors Island and through New York Harbor, with additional stops at the Brooklyn Army Terminal and Sunset Park, recently debuted.  It speeding passengers to the city’s best beaches in less than an hour, compared with 90 minutes or more by subway. The new ferries have Wi-Fi, bathrooms, bike racks and snack bars stocked with beer and wine.  The one-way fare ($2.75) is the same as the subway, and a lot less than the Long Island Railroad to Fire Island or The Hamptons.

The Rockaways are known by locals for watersports, including the best surf spot (yes, really!) in the city. The beachfront community also boasts a 5.5-mile boardwalk, similar to the one in Atlantic City. And the peninsula is home to Fort Tilden, a former U.S. Army Installation, and Jacob Riis Park, with its famous art deco bathhouse. Both are administered by the National Park Service.

Spirit: Worst Airline in America?

Actual riot breaks out in boarding area.

My husband and I flew Spirit Airlines once. The delays and the nickel-and-diming caused us to vow: Never again. And we’ve kept that vow, not just for Spirit but for Frontier and other low-cost, no-service companies and their flying misery machines.

On Sunday, a riot broke out at Hollywood-Fort Lauderdale Airport after nine or more flights were canceled. Apple News “the  airline blames a pilot slowdown and is suing pilot the union, alleging that they have been deliberately stalling flights as retaliation over contract disputes. According to the lawsuit, Spirit had canceled 81 flights in one day across the country and approximately 300 over the past week. People tweeted videos of the massive crowd surrounding the counter, some showing the escalation of the mass argument from verbal to physical when authorities stepped in.”

Click here for the ABC News report.

 

Beijing’s Summer Palace Revisited

Crowds, crowds and did I mention crowds?

We are en route from the U.S. to Tibet with a day in Beijing — my third visit to China’s capital. The first was in 1999, and even superficial changes since then are stunning. Built into the Road Scholar itinerary were a couple of hours in the stunning Summer Palace, a grandiose and  elaborate treasure from the old Chinese Empire. It was crowded when I first visited, but now, there are more people, more photo and video stops,  plus selfie sticks that did not exist then.

The standard route through the palace remains unchanged — a walk through the gates, across a courtyard or two, a scenic walk with an artificial lake on one side and a lovely arcade on the other, a look at the famous stone boat and a ride across the lake to a landing near the exit. Here are some pictures from my visit. As you can see, taking any without a lot of people was a challenge, but taking them with a crowd was as simple as pointing the camera anywhere along the standard route.

Located 9 miles from downtown, this is the largest and best-preserved royal park in China.  Construction began in 1750 as a setting for royal families to rest and entertain, and many of its features of combining natural and enhanced landsscapes have served as a model for Chinese gardens. Heavily damaged, it was twice rebuilt and In 1924, it was opened to the public. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a leading attraction for foreign and domestic visitors.

The basic walk-through tour at lake level and boat ride are standard on most city tours,  but it is possible to reach the Summer Palace by public transportation and visit are leisure. Click here and scroll down for details.

Easter Island ‘Discovered’ 245 Years Ago

Mid-Pacific island now a bucket-list destination.

According to the “on this day in history” tidbit, Easter Island — though inhabited — was “discovered” on the Tropic of Capricorn by European seamen. The indigenous people called it Rapa Nui. The short version of the story is:

On this Easter Sunday, 3,000 miles from the nearest continental land, Dutch navigator Jacob Roggeveen finds a 63-square-mile island in the southeastern Pacific Ocean. Towering stone statues mystify these first European visitors and others for centuries to come.

Now Chilean territory, its famous monolithic statues continue to intrigue visitors. Archeologists have restored some of the nearly 900 moai. A visit to remote the Rapa Nui National Park is indeed a bucket list experience.

Norwegian Air Inaugurating Denver-London Flight

Low-fare carrier to start service in mid-September.

Norwegian Airlines announced is adding low-fare non-stop transatlantic flights from Denver International Airport and one from Seattle-Tacoma International Airport to London’s Gatwick Airport. Denver eastbound service begins on September 16 with flights on Tuesdays and Saturdays. There are plans to increase to three weekly flights in November.

The carrier is also debuting from Seattle-London service on September 17 with flights on Mondays, Wednesday, Fridays and Sundays. With these new routes, Norwegian serves  from 13 U.S. cities with a total of 48 non-stop routes to Europe,  both  seasonal and year-round. According to reports, Paris is next.

The very low inaugural fare is attributed to  increasing transatlantic competition.  Air France and British Airways have indicated plans  for low-cost international flights. Stay tuned.

U.S.to Put Out Unwelcome Mat for Foreign Visitors

Administration establishes tough and intrusive border regulations.

I started this blog more than a decade ago to celebrate the joy of travel and to offer occasional useful information for travelers. Sadly, travel has become increasingly less joyful, what with punitive airline experiences, fears of violent incidents in some of the world’s most appealing destinations and now, border hassles. Below is a digest graph from  the WTFJHT daily E-blast over the latest news to discourage inbound visitation to the U.S. — and we don’t now what the counter-policies might be.

The Trump administration is considering steps for “extreme vetting.” Foreigners entering US could be forced to disclose contacts on their mobile phones, social media passwords and financial records, and to answer probing questions about their ideology. (🔒 Wall Street Journal)

i have to wonder whether it will have a domino effect on travel to countries that previously were easy to enter. Will those with U.S. passports or arriving from U.S. flights now be diverted from the green customs light line when entering other countries?

Award-winning travel blog. Colorado-based Claire Walter shares travel news and first-hand destination information from around the corner, around the country and around the world.